Ñèñòåìà "Sinjuin roulette"

You now have in your hands the most effective and most exhaustively researched roulette methodology in the world.

Please read everything over at least 5 or 6 times before practicing at home. (Reading it over three times a day over a three day period is even better.)

Then practice, practice, practice for at least several days at home until you can do everything automatically.

Then find a casino with the smallest stakes possible (to lessen the “anxiety” factor) and practice some more.

We can't stress this enough as this has always been the big downfall with “students” of the game as well as gamblers in general.

Also, please note that pages 1-16 explain how to play an “unbiased wheel.” (as most wheels are biased to some degree or another, what we mean by and “unbiased wheel” is a wheel that is not biased enough to overcome the house advantage.)

Biased wheel play is covered on the bonus pages.

Throughout these instructions you will see reminders NOT to play for real money until you have studied and practiced and practiced some more.

Although the methods themselves fit easily into an envelope, we can not package patience and discipline…

There is no reason for you to risk real money while you are learning how to play correctly. Going from the studying phase straight to actual casino play without practicing at home first can be frustrating and counter-productive. You will make mistakes at first and it is better to make them at home "for free" than in a casino with real money at the table.

Actual roulette decisions to practice on at home are free for the taking. All you need is a pencil and paper.

We strongly recommend that you write down actual decisions at a casino and conduct "paper trials" at home until you are completely familiar with the methods as well as the ebb and flow of the game.

Roulette! "The system player's favorite game".

INTRODUCTION

To most Americans, Craps may be the King of games. But to system players and gambling enthusiasts throughout the rest of the world, roulette is the Queen. The game of roulette has a dignity and a studious atmosphere that differs from other casino games. Roulette players enjoy a chance to sit down and get away from the excited shouting of other players and constant spieling of the dealers.

The roulette player is not concerned with the necessity of counting or making constant decisions as in a card game, nor does he have to be concerned with a so called "hot shooter" as in craps.

A good roulette player plays his game far better and lasts longer than speculators at other games. Roulette is a great game and it is our goal to help you become a winning player.

There are two basic forms of roulette. The American style and the more player friendly European style. Even with a higher house advantage than most other casino games, roulette profits still don't seem to satisfy greedy US casino operators.

In America , you not only have to contend with an extra zero (the green double zero) you also have to put up with the annoyances. American roulette dealers often spin the plays too quickly and sweep the board impatiently. Most Europeans are quickly digusted with the game as played in the United States as they are accustomed to a much better game with more time to make decisions and a better chance of winning.

There is some good news, however. In recent years more and more casinos have added single zero wheels. The Monte Carlo in Las Vegas , for example, has all single zero wheels and they should be congratulated for their efforts to provide a better game. (see bonus pages for more casinos with single zero wheels.)

A typical casino might have five to ten times more blackjack tables than roulette tables, but the casinos have been killing off a lot of “21” players lately with all their gimmicks and greedy rules. Many players have found their money goes fast at the blackjack tables and have turned to dice or roulette instead. With a bit of knowledge, an informed player can win at roulette. It just takes a little study and a thorough understanding of the game.

RESPECT FOR PERCENTAGES

On an American roulette wheel you will find 36 numbers, half of them red and half of them black. You will also find a green single zero and a green double zero. This makes a total of 38 numbered slots the ball can drop into. On the European wheel there are also 36 numbers but only one green zero; a total of 37 possible numbers.

All Payoffs are the same and all of the quoted odds are the same whether you play a single zero wheel or a double zero wheel. The only difference is in the percentage “bite.” Whereas the American style wheel has 2/38ths (or 1/19 th ) advantage against the player for a percentage of -5.26%, the European wheel has just 1/37 th advantage against the player, or -2.7%.

European casinos also give the “outside” even money player another break. Should the green zero come up, the player can either pay half of his lost OR get one more spins for free! This cuts the negative expectation in half from -2.7% to -1.35%. This negative 1.35 percent is actually less risk than the best bets on a crap table where the least percentage is -1.4% (The MGM Grand is rumored to have one single zero wheel in the baccarat pit with the “en prison” rule as is new Beau Rivage in Biloxi, Mississippi.)

To the even money player who likes to make RED/BLACK, HIGH/LOW, ODD/EVEN bets, the difference between American and European roulette is a whopping 4%. Now, if you don't think 4% is a tremendous amount, you just haven't learned to respect percentages yet!

YOU MUST LEARN TO RESPECT PERCENTAGES. The house lives on it and every little fraction of a percentage point is a big deal because you “interest in reverse” it compounds itself and contrives a grind away at your bankroll. Lthough most American casinos do not treat a hit on the green zero like they do in Europe (with their “en prison” rule) -2.7% on a single zero wheel is still a much better proposition than a -5.26%.

On all the bets n a roulette table, the "green percentage" is constant. It is not like a dice table where the percentage against the player varies according to the propositions covered. Roulette also has many facets or avenues for systematic play.

Starting with the simplest one (even money - red or black) the player would have a 50/50 chance of winning a bet if it wasn't for the percentage the house takes when the ball lands on the green. The same “green percentage” applies to the other simple “outside” bets on the layout including other even money bets.

The 2 to 1 propositions are considered “outside” bets also. These include betting the dozens, dividing the board three ways across and playing by columns of one dozen numbers each, or by dividing the board three ways lengthwise.

"Outside" bets have a higher minimum requirement than bets placed inside the numbered area. “Straight-up” numbers have a lower permissible maximum bet. It is very important that you know the table limits of all types of bets before you start playing.

Many players think all gambling games are pure luck and they can ignore the percentages. In all casino games, you see a constant disregard on the part of uninformed or indifferent players.

It is also extremely important that you realize that danger of the insidious grinding of percentages. In fact, if you are not constantly thinking about percentages, you are a hopeless case.

You must always avoid the bad bets on a crap table. Avoiding the “big six” upright wheels. Leave the slot machines for the tourists and learn to play a good game of roulette.

We are going to assume you have some working knowledge of the game of roulette. If not, there are usually free flyers to be found in most casinos that will explain the basics. After you understand the basics, you must then learn which systems to avoid.

SYSTEMS TO AVOID

It has often been said, "There are many roulette systems as there are Frenchmen." This may be true across the big pond, but in the US there are only a few basic types of players.

Many US players are the "shotgun" type. They love to put chips all over the board and cover a lot of numbers. Sure, they get some winners at 35 to 1… but they plow so much back into the game that their winnings are very temporary.

 

Then we have the "overdue" believers. If a number or a color or a section or dozen on the wheel fails to come up for a while, they will start following it. Some will progress their bets too steeply. Rarely done in an organized fashion, this isn't a very good plan to begin with. Ask yourself this: How can you find a real big slump if it doesn't start out as a little one? Therefore, isn't the "overdue" player walking right into all the big slumps? Research indicates that something that is HOT and HITTING is much better to play than something that is (supposedly) "overdue."

Finally, we come to the simple but steep progression players. The double-up players and the cancellation believers… all living on borrowed time. Some players with a big bankroll will try a double up progression and get out ahead for a little while. Eventually though they will hit a streak of losses that wipes out all of their gains and/or they hit the table limits. In any case, steep progressions have not worked for centuries and never will ask long as table limits exist and losing streaks are part of the game.

Good system play is founded on lengthy study and research. A plan must be tested over thousands or even tens of thousands of decisions to know the maximum "slump potential" and capital requirements. Very few players take gambling as a serious business. They want success to fall in their laps and hit the jackpot five minutes after they site down just like in the movies. If, instead they would adopt a more realistic approach and accept a few percent profit, they would have an excellent chance of winning.

The most logical approach to roulette is actually to WAIT until something appears, then bet on more appearing soon after. If the run of more of the same fails to appear, back off and accept that this isn't one of the times for a statistically normal "clumping" or "bunching" of numbers to appear. Don't keep stubbornly betting as this can cost you your entire bankroll.

Some "favorite number" roulette players will start out betting one chip on each of their favorite numbers UNITL they get a winner. Then they will increase their bets for the next spin or for a pre-determined length of time.

If they win again with the larger bet, they will again increase their bets on the next spin or for however long their plan calls for. If they are fortunate and run into a "bunching up" of their numbers they can accumulate a very nice gain. The smart ones will quit as soon as the hot streak tapers off BEFORE they give back all of their gains.

You may wish to try this method on any kind of selections you like. Sometimes it will work. The trick is to calculate your capital sufficiently and to have the discipline to walk away while you are ahead.

Wheel section players know that the ball will drop in a section for a few times before getting erratic again. They play a waiting game and try to capitalize on a good run. Some use a mild progression and actually get away with it. This too takes study and a complete understanding of your plan.

GOOD SYSTEM RULES

The first thing you need to do is to decide what sort of action appeals to you. Some people like the short odds plays found on the outside of the layout. Some like long shots such as straight up numbers at 35 to 1or split numbers at 17 to 1. Others like to cover 4 to 6 numbers at a time and get a mid-range payoff. You must remember that the longer the odds, the longer the slumps. This, of course, is compensated for by the fact that long shots have a bigger payoff when they do hit. Fortunately, with roulette, there is no difference in the negative percentage. (Dice players on the other hand have to take a bad percentage bets if they wish to play the long shots.)

Roulette system players, especially in Europe , are commonly seen with a pencil and pad. In America casinos the system player gets a lot of kidding from non-believers. Keeping a good record is very necessary, however, unless you have a relatively simple plan. A very small notebook or palm sized index cards are suggested for record keeping. Always use an eversharp (mechanical) pencil with an eraser, never a pen. Under the pressure of the game you can make mistakes or get behind if a pen fairs to write on a slick surface or runs out of ink. The purpose of keeping records is to know what has happened and know what the next correct move should be.

GOOD SYSTEM PLAY

The basis for a good system play is cycles or patterns. Research shows what it takes to constitute a hot streak and roughly how long to flow it before it cools off. Granted, a number or a section will often hit just after it was dropped; but those frustrations are expected and are a part of the game. You can not keep altering rules based on a few outcomes. Rules of play must be based on research done on tens of thousands of decisions.

This research indicates that each different odds bracket has a cycle period. These provide the basis for rules of selection. One thing you will notice very early on is that one winner does not necessarily indicate the termination of a slump or the start of a winning streak. It does pay to stop action, however, when your plan blanks out too long and to wait for a winner or a pre-determined betting cue before restarting.

RULES OF SELECTION

Beginning with the shortest priced plays and working up to the long shots, let's take a look at the rules of selection. What scientific research indicates that you should do may seem absolutely contrary to most player's beliefs or preconceptions. For example, many people think that if black hits four or five times in a row, now is the time to bet red. Research says just the opposite.

Even money bets: Even money plays are not HOT or ready to follow UNTIL THEY HAVE HIT AT LEAST 4, PREFERABLY FIVE OR SIX TIMES IN A ROW.

Of course, if you tart on 4 you will get slightly longer winning streaks when you do hit a run. On the other hand, you will make more false starts than if you start on 5. Research indicates 5 is about right and 6 is quite good too. Start watching the even money propositions such as red/black, odd/even, or high/low.

When one of them hits five or more times GET ON IT and stay on it till it loses. This selection, of course, need a wagering plan to fit (which will be discussed later.)

BEFORE YOU QUESTION THIS MEATHOD OF SELECTION, “LOOK AT THE RECORD.” Compare the overall profit or loss percentages with starting on ANY even money bet at any other time, including after a string of losers. If you examine thousands of plays, you will see that this way helps a bit and, in gaming, ANYTHING you can do to improve your bet selections in the slightest will give you a much better chance to fight your enemy - the house percentage.

Dozens and Columns: Next are the 2-1 shots and the most favorable time to start betting on them. Research indicates you should wait for TWO OR THREE CONSECUTIVE hits on any particular dozen or column before betting on it. Wait for only two if you are anxious, but three is better. Again this needs a good wagering plan which will be covered later.

Research these methods of selection yourself, write down the individual results and practice until you are completely confortable that you know what you are doing.

Six Blocks: Now for the longer odds (pays 5 to 1) on the 6 block. This is where you place your chip on the edge of a half a dozen numbers. The time to pick up on a 6 block is after it has hit TWICE in a row. Stop on a loser and adopt a good wagering plan.

Longer Odds: Finding cycles for long odds play is slightly different. Consecutive hits are no longer needed. Although, two in a row is, of course, time to pick up the play. Any time a strip of three numbers hits twice in a row (pays 11 to 1) OR a split of two numbers hits twice in a row (pays 17 to 1) play it to REPEAT and continue as long as it keeps hitting. Anyone watching you make these plays might think you are crazy. But, even though you may be playing a long shot, it is not quite as long as it appears.

For example, let's say 11 comes up twice in a row. You put a bet on it to hit for the third time. Someone at the table will probably say out loud, “It can't hit again!” Some will even say the odds are astronomical.

Actually, the odds of a number hitting three times in a row are quite long BEFORE you have two hits in a row. But, After two have already hit, the three in a row odds are no worse at all. In fact, research shows them to be slightly BETTER due to the cycling or bunching effect. NEVER HESITATE to play long shots to continue repeating.

Strips of Three: If you are interested in long shot plays, strips of three numbers can be watched and charted. If a strip hits TWICE in a row or TWICE within FOUR spins, play it next spin. If it hits THREE times within SEVEN spins, follow it FOUR times. Continue to follow it if it re-hits until you get four losers in a row, then drop off.

Splits: Next are the 17 to 1 shots or split numbers. The cycle for any 17 to 1 shot to qualify is: If it hits TWICE in a row, play it the next time out. IF it hits THREE times within TEN, follow it FIVE more times. Stay with it as long as it "cycles." Drop off after FIVE losers.

Individual numbers: If you like long shots, you may as well go for straight up numbers. The cycle on single numbers has been exhaustively researched and it goes like this: If a single number hits TWICE IN A ROW, play it next spin. If it hits TWO TIMES WITHIN TEN, play it only once next spin. If it hits THREE TIMES WITHIN TWENTY, follow it for TEN spins. As long as it re-hits within 10 when following, continue to follow until you hit ten losers. Then drop off until it re-qualifies.

THE "CLUMPING" OR "BUNCHING UP" EFFECT

The "clumping" or "bunching up" effect happens regularly with all of the possible betting ways (i.e. even money chances, dozens and columns, etc…) Nowhere, however, is it more dramatic or more exciting than when it happens to "straight-up" number bets.

For example, here is an actual run of numbers from march 18, 1999 from a single zero wheel at the Grand Casino in Gulfport , Mississippi.

16 , 13, 0, 18, 30, 19, 34, 22, 15, 16, 16 , 13, 4, 30, 8, 16 , 20, 10, 23, 34, 19, 18, 26, 20, 5, 16 , 8, 12, 31, 13, 19, 2, 4, 21, 26, 19, 11, 26, 6, 18, 23, 14, 19, 5, 14, 27, 2, 15, 24, 30, 36, 34, 35

As you can see, the number 16 first came up twice within 10 spins and five times total for the run. A 10 dollar bet was made on the 16 (right after its second appearance within 10 spins) and it happened to hit the very next spin for a 350 dollar payoff. 10 dollar bets were made on the next four spins which were losers. Then 16 hit again for another 350 dollar gain (running total +670 dollars.) The next eight spins were losers then the 16 hit again on the ninth spin. 670-80=570 + 350 = 920 dollars). The 16 failed to hit again during the next 10 spins so 100 dollars was fed back. Net profit 820 dollars.

You can actually have more than one number (or section) "qualified" at a time for following. This is not too complicated and you will have plenty of time to bet if you are practiced.

Did you happen to notice what was happening with 19 during the same run? Here it is again with 19 in red to make it easier to follow the action.

16, 13, 0, 18, 30, 19 , 34, 22, 15, 16, 16, 13, 4, 30, 8, 16, 20, 10, 23, 34, 19, 18, 26, 20, 5, 16, 8, 12, 31, 13, 19 , 2, 4, 21, 26, 19 , 11, 26, 6, 18, 23, 14, 19 , 5, 14, 27, 2, 15, 24, 30, 36, 34, 35

You can and should ignore the first 19 as it has no real bearing. Do note, however, what the second, third and fourth time the 19 came up it happened within the 16 spins. (Well within the 20 spins called for.) A bet was then made on 19. Seven spins later the 19 came up again for the profit of 290 dollars. 350-60=290. The 19 did not come up again during the next 10 spins so the bet was taken down. Even with the 10 losing spins at the very end, there was still a net profit of 190 dollars from 19. Added to the 820 win from before that makes a 1,010 dollar profit (all done with flat bets).

IF YOU HAVEN'T SPENT MUCH TIME OBSERVING AND CHARTING ROULETTE WHEELS, YOU MAY THINK THIS WAS AN UNUSUAL OCCURRENCE. OR, YOU MAY BE THINKING THAT THE WHEEL WAS BIASED. ACTUALLY, THIS PARTICULAR WHEEL WAS NOT NOTICABLY BIASED AND A RUN LIKE THIS IS NOT AT ALL UNUSUAL.

Fact is… If you step up to any double zero roulette wheel at any time, anywhere in the world and begin to record the numbers, you will see at least one number hit four or more times within 38 spins about 40 percent of the time. On a single wheel, of course, you need only be concerned with 37 spins (as there are only 37 pockets) and it will happen slightly more often.

As you might well imagine, with a 35 to 1 payoff on straight-up numbers, you can afford to miss a few bets here and there. Even if a "qualified" number fails to repeat within 10 spins, all you are out (with 10 dollar bets) is 100 dollars. If you get a good run, however, you can continue to make flat bets until you are well ahead - then "parlay" your bets (more on this later) and rack up some very substantial profits.

LET'S LOOK AT TWO MORE EXAMBLES OF THE "CLUMPING" OR "BUNCHING UP" EFFECT This time we will be watching strips of three numbers.

Remember the selection criteria for a strip of three numbers: If it hits TWICE in a row or TWICE within FOUR spins, play it next spin. If it hits THREE times within SEVEN spins, follow it FOUR times. Continue to follow it if it re-hits until you get four losers in a row, then drop off. (hitting a strip of three gives you a 11 to 1 payoff).

This is a very simple example from an actually session in Weisbaden, West Germany.

23, 28, 1, 1, 24, 7, 8, 9 , 6, 28, 36, 17

In the example above the 7 and 8 hit back to back (in other words, the 7, 8, 9 three strip hit twice in a row). A bet (lets say 10 dollars) was called for and made on that strip. That strip hit again (9) for a 110 dollar payoff (gain). According to criteria, you would follow the strip for four more spins hoping for a repeat which, in this case, did not happen. 110 minus the four losers makes a net profit of 70 dollars.

Here is another example from the same session.

11, 34, 12, 4, 25 , 22, 34, 25, 26, 29, 27, 26 , 21, 7, 23, 14

The 25 hits, then it pops up again three spins later (twice within four spins) so one bet is called for and made on the three strip 24, 26, 27. On the next spin, the strip hits (via 26) for a 110 dollar win. Note that the strip has now also hit THREE times within SEVEN and selection criteria directs you to follow the strip FOUR more times until you get four losers.

The next spin is 29 and you lose 10 dollar. On the next two spins however, you got 27 and 26 (both are winning hits) and you collect 110 dollar profit from each hit. What to do next? The selection criteria stipulates four more bets on the three strip. As the next four spins fair to produce a winner you drop off. Total for the winning bets was 330 dollars. Losses totaled 50 dollars so you got 280 dollars profit (all with FLAT BETTING).

Usual runs? Not at all (These two happened within 20 minutes of each other.) Sections repeat and/or hit within close proximity all the time. Complicated? Maybe at first glance. If you practice (combining the mental process of reading with the mechanical process of doing) it will quickly become second nature to you.

If you get a night where straight up numbers and/or strips of three are not hitting all that often (it will happen) look at other numbers and/or sections of the board. Patterns are always occurring and reoccurring on a roulette wheel. You just have to look for them, recognize what is going on in front of you and bet accordingly.

Note: Although we only give a few examples (with red/black, strips of three and straight up numbers) the clumping or bunching up effect can and does occur with all other combinations and sections too. (as you will soon discover while practicing.)

AGGRAVATION TACTICS

You may find that on American wheels, especially if you are the only player at the table, the dealer may try to "outspin" you. To combat this tactic, pick a "friendly" dealer or try to play where there are a few other players at the table to slow down the pace and camouflage your play. Of course, tipping the dealer after a good win or putting a small chip on one or more numbers you are betting on "for the dealer" is also a good way to get them to slow down the pace and get them on your side.

Speaking of dealer tricks, there are many ways the house can engage in aggravation tactics. Good system players are not appreciated. Not that they think you will win a lot of money with system play. They just don't like the lengthy struggle when they can get plenty of disorganized and foolish players to occupy the seats and drop their bankroll faster. In a large, reputable US casino you don't have to worry about crooked roulette wheels. They can easily discourage your action by other means.

Less push on the ball can cause quick spins (quick decisions). There are also fast sweeps and quick restarts and the occasional and seemingly unintentional mispay. This can cause arguments and your temper may take over which can not only cause you to play poorly but could also get you thrown out.

To avoid such confrontations, a good player chooses his playing spots intelligently and plays at the best times. Do not play on a busy, crowded weekends when the house needs the space. Conversely, don't play in an empty house. Weekday afternoons and evenings are good. Avoid holidays, busy weekends and large convention crowds.

Avoid "confrontational" type dealers and SKIP THE FREE DRINKS. You may think that one little drink does no harm, but anything that slows down your thinking or relaxes your inhibitions in the slightest works for the house. One bit of daring action, especially if it is successful, leads to another and eventual breakdown of all good rules of logical play.

Have you ever heard of the one dealer that can drop a ball in any particular numbered slot? Probably just a myth. There are a few “talented” dealers that can place a ball within a certain section, however. Maybe not every time, but if you are a one number player and expert dealer can easily beat you by causing the ball to land on the other side of the board.

Dealers can spot a good system player just as easily as a true sucker. Casinos are only worried about good system players and big betters who might get hot and make a big score.

In blackjack, for example, good card counters often draw unwanted attention (and a reshuffle of the deck) when they up their bet from 5 to 20 dollars. Whereas a constant 50 dollar flat better at the same table will get no attention at all. A good system player must rotate his action from casino to casino and learn all the tricks of the trade. Generally speaking though, it helps in any game if you are NOT the biggest player at the table.

WAGERING PLANS

All efforts to recover losses should be CONSERVATIVE, otherwise you will frequently and quickly magnify your debt. The ideal betting plan bets small when losing and larger when winning. To put it another way; the ideal wagering plan puts more on the winners than it does on the losers. This is not easy to accomplish with rules and even harder to accomplish without rules.

It is up to YOU to stop guessing and dreaming and make a thorough study of selection criteria an wagering plans. Snap decisions and hunches will also be improved if a player has a background of research, study and experience.

Casinos never worry when they see a player using the old "double the bet to get even" tactic. They also smile indulgently when any kind of steep progression player tries to beat the game simply by throwing money at it. Having steep pockets helps, but a big bankroll alone has never guaranteed success at any game.

Most players try progressions that are too steep for their reserve capital because they never imagined things could go so badly. These players are busted out with table limits coming into play.

Players with large bankrolls often miscalculate how long a losing streak can last and run into the table limits which kills any chance of their betting plan to make a recovery.

We won't waste time with pages and pages of illustrations. Just know they DON'T WORK.

There are many systems that are based on betting progressions - double up after a loss, increase by one unit after a win, etc. Math tells us, however, that no betting progression can overcome a game in which you do not have some kind of advantage.

Most progression based systems will yield a small win a high percentage of the time, but eventually produce (at least) one catastrophic loss that eclipses the sum total of all winnings. Let's look at the typical example.

This spend-and-recoup strategy employs a betting system called the Blundell Progression. The goal of the system is to come out one betting unit ahead per session. It works as follows.

Lets assume a 5 dollar unit. Begin by betting one unit, and continue to bet one unit until you either achieve a one unit profit or lose 10 units.

If you lose, double up your units to two and then do the same. Play until you recover your losses or until you lose another 10 units. Then you keep on doing this over and over until you either get the unit or lose a mighty big loss.

Anyone who would try such a system would have a success rate of maybe 95 percent of the time, but then while they don't realize, they will have a 5 percent fail rate which will bring in horrible losses.

CANCELATION PLANS

One such popular plan is known as the "D' Lambert System," just one of the many Cancellation Plans. It starts out with a small string of numbers: 1-2-3 or 1-1-1 … the player starts betting by betting the sums of the two end numbers, if he loses, then he adds what he lost to the end. So if a person bets 2 units (1 + 1) then he loses, then the string would look like so: 1-1-1-2 (added the two) now the player bets again the sum of the first and last numbers which would be three and continues this pattern. When a player wins though, they cross out the two numbers they added for example, if the person won on the next bet (3 units) then he would cross out the 1 and 2 making the new string 1-1.

People playing a Cancellation Plan for the first time think they have made the discovery of the century. They do nothing but make money. Then along comes a bad period where they fail to get that 33 percent winners and then the bet amount goes through the roof. This could happen the first time you sit down at the table.

The Cancellation Plan has some merits, however, and you can be improved upon a bit by "borrowing" or spreading the losses into additional columns. In a sense, the player who takes a big loss and breaks it up into separate parts in an effort to get back to base is taking a more CONSERVATIVE approach which he should have using in the first place.

The Cancellation plan thus has about a 1/3 rd increase ratio which is a bit too steep and dangerous.

There are many great wagering scales you can buy or invent yourself. A very popular one goes 1,3,5,8 etc… added each of the previous two numbers. If a winner does not complete the recovery while using this, then fall back one step after a winner. Two winners in a row will mean a winning session. This is also too steep and dangerous.

One "gentleman" in particular made a small fortune charging a large fee for the wagering plan just described. He would even go to the casino with the purchaser to "prove" the plan really worked. His chances of hitting a losing session… about 1 in 10. So he would collect money 9 of 10 times and just shrug of the losers.

There are many more gradual wagering scales that are an improvement over the steep ones. Gradual scales have faults too, however. Suppose a player just incremented his bets by one, his first step from 1 to 2 is alone 100 percent increase, then as he goes from 2 to 3 it slowly decreases.

Research shows that an even money game can get 30 or 40 more units or more behind and, if a player hasn't pulled out with a profit, his bets are not only getting big… but now the percent increase (from bet to bet) is very small. If the play then still fails to make a profit from a new starting point the progression has lost its punch and will not be enough to overcome the negative percentage of the game.

Another popular system based on wagering scales is the “rise and fall” or “up-one-down-one.” The player bets one unit on the first play. If it loses he bets two on the next. Anytime he loses he goes up one unit, anytime he wins, he goes down one unit. It can get into trouble when the play works up its way to the “tall grass.” To play this sort of plan for a short session might seem ok but like most wagering plans, you are living on borrowed time.

MORE SENSIBLE WAGERING PLANS

Series progressions can be slowed down to something like: 1,1,1,2,2,2,3,3,3 etc… When playing this sort of plan, which is not too bad, there are two ways to go. One way is to drop back to the preceding level if the new higher level made a profit and gradually work your way back down to base level play.

The other way is "no retreat," gradually putting down more and larger bets until a good period comes along and clears the debt. Some of the more successful players use a very, very gradual "no retreat" type plan.

When playing short odds such as even money, the progress by a series of 10 (10 bets at the one unit each level, then move up to ten bets at two unit level.)

As the bets gradually rise, a good stretch puts more money on winners than losers and they pull out with a profit. The more successful (and patient) gamblers who play odds longer than even money, may progress by a series of 20 or by 50. An improvement on the progression-without-retreat, a progression by gradual series, is this: Hold bets down to ONE unit no matter how long it takes until a winner comes along before moving up to the next higher series level.

Another popular form of wagering is called the "DUE COLUMN." In all types of wagering, the player should always keep in mind his "debt." Whenever your debt is recovered and a small gain is accomplished, you can return to base and start all over again.

We now refer to the debt as the amount "due." Each losing bet plus a unit of desired profit is added to the debt to increase the amount due. You may be able to handle the due column figure in your head without using pencil and paper.

If you are playing "multiple due columns" you will probably need a score card. (Multiple due is where you are rotating the action into more than one column or playing different propositions.)

The dangerous due columns are those that divide the FULL ODDS into the due. For example, if you had debt of 10 and bet 10 on an even money shot, a win would get you out but you would be playing 100 percent rate increase (same as doubling).

In many casino games, you can take even money selections and turn them into 3 to 1 shots by playing parlays. (one becomes two let it ride, two becomes 4). These players then divide their due by 1/3 rd and any winning parlay gets them out of debt. A due column that averages 3 to 1 odds will be progressing by 33 percent, still too dangerous and too steep as research proves.

On 35 to 1 shots on straight up numbers, a due column player could divide by 1/35 th of the debt and thus increase by a mere 3 percent. This plan isn't bad if you have a good number selection process similar to the recommended cycle plays on straight-up numbers as described earlier.

If you do NOT have good selections and you are depending strictly on the wagering plan, you can not only fail to make enough profit, but you can encounter slumps than run into the hundreds. This will push a bet up to the table limit and will take up a lot of capital.

MAKING A GOOD PLAN BETTER

Earlier it was recommended that a good wagering plan had to be conservative. Let's take the best organized of the ordinary wagering plans and play it more conservatively and see what can be done to make it more successful. Next we improve on the Due Columns plan.

The first thing is to go for a fixed percent of the debt, but NOT for full odds. For example, if you were playing 1 to 1, that calls for a 100% of the debt to be the bet. An improved plan calls for a mere 10% of the debt, even though one winner would not clear the debt. This may seem ultra-conservative.

You would be betting one unit for quite a while before 10% of the due would call for a 2 unit bet. Even so this conservative play will put 10% more on winners than losers WHEN NEEDED after a prolonged slump. If you want to play 3 to 1 shots or longer with our plans, you would still divide by 1/3 rd but could go for an even smaller rate of increase such as 5%.

If you start off your due column play with a desired profit of one or two units (which you put into the debt right away) THEN when the debt is cleared, you have those two units as profit.

An improvement on the earning power of this slow percent plan is to use what is called the "take-out." Under the "take-out" approach, the debt is charged with one unit every so often according to a given plan. This can be 5 dollars or whatever is suitable. For example, if most even money plays are parlayed at 3 to 1, a "take-out" of one unit per winner can be used whenever the starting bet is over one unit.

For example, say you had a debt of 30. At 10 percent debt for a bet, this would call for a bet of 3. On a parlay that wins, you bring back a profit of 9, but only 8 would be taken from the 30 debt, leaving you a new debt of 22. Each unit of “take-out” is pocketed. When the debt is reduced back to base, each winner has earned you one unit profit.

TEST THIS ON PAPPERUNTIL YOU UNDERSTAND IT. You will see many objectives can be accomplished with reasonable safety. To make a definite and steady profit, always strive to put more on winners than on losers on the overall average to “survive” so you can stay in business while awaiting the good runs.

YOU SHOULD NOT MOVE ONTO THE SECTION UNTIL YOU HAVE ABSORBED EACH PRECEDING EXPLANATION AND EACH POINT IS CLEAR.

MORE IMPROVEMENTS

For further improvements in the conservative due column approach, you can take additional steps to protect your bankroll during prolonged slump. A good way to do this is to move into “multiple columns” when the first due column gets too deep. For example, say you reach your pre-determined stop-loss of 100 units. It is now time to switch your debt into THREE columns of 33 each (or two at 33 and one at 34). Now the best can be rotated OR worked on just one column at a time until it is cleared. When one of the columns is cleared, the next one is picked. If all three columns are worked off, it is out of its slump and everything starts again back at base. ALL THIS TIME, the “take-out” is still in effect and it all becomes quite business-like.

During the explanation of the above wagering plan, the selection method has been deliberately left open. A due column (at less than full odds) can be built on any facet of roulette. You may prefer even money, 2 to 1 dozens or columns, 5 to 1 six blocks or any other odds up to 35 to 1.

Whatever you choose, your due column must be set at less than full odds of your selection play. For example, if you picked a 6 blocks to play paying 5 to 1, nothing stronger than 5 percent due would be suggested. On 35 to 1 shots you could go as conservative as 1/100 th or 1 percent of the due (this may strike you as too conservative.) but the instance of the long shots with infrequent cashing, your "take-out" could be expanded to 5 units per winner.

CAPITALIZATION REQUIREMENTS

Reserve capital (bankroll) requirements are something you dare not miscalculate. The key here too, is ultra conservatism.

On FLAT play, which means the same amount on all bets, any gambling game can experience tremendous swings. On a progression, the capital required is many times more. For example, if you played just red or black (even money shots) you could expect swings of 50 units in either direction. This does not mean 50 consecutive losers but it does mean your balance can reach -50 in betting just one unit per play. Of course, if you are playing a really bad percentage game it could go down and never come back. Then, no amount of capital would suffice for flat play.

Let's assume you are cycling your bets and making intelligent decisions and let's also assume you are playing on a SINGLE ZERO WHEEL as it is at least twice as hard to overcome the house advantage when playing on a double zero.

IT IS DIFFICULT FOR MANY PEOPLE TO DEVELOP A RELAISTIC ATTITUDE ABOUT GAMBLING CAPITAL. They would like to take out 100 dollars or so and double it quickly. Although this has been done and incredible stories have been told about huge wins that started out with a bankroll of just a “few dollars”… this is the rare exception and not the rule.

The true professional knows how to AIM for a killing, but he doesn't count on it. His first and foremost concern is SURVIVAL. The professional speculator knows that a small percent profit is good buisness and when he learns to make a small but steady profit on casino games, his earning potential is virtually unlimited. It becomes just a matter of longer hours and larger sized bets.

THE PROBLM IS THAT MOST PEOPLE TRY TO BET BIG WITHOUT THE PROPER RESERVE CAPITAL TO STAY IN BUSINESS. Someone with only a few hundred dollars in capital should stick to betting 1 dollar units. Instead, he tries betting 5 or 10 and first little downswing wipes him out. A good reserve for conservative progression play would be 500 dollars capital for 1 dollar start up bet, making one dollar bets the basic "unit." On less capital, 25 cents chips should be the basic unit. As capital increases, the 500 to 1 ratio should still be maintained. No one should make 5 dollar bets unless he has two or three thousand dollars in reserve!

BEWARE OF WHAT STATISTICIANS CALL STANDARD DEVIATION. Although an astute blackjack card counter can, over the long haul, realize up to a 1.5 percent advantage over the house (depending on such variables as the number of decks, which card counting system he employs and how many cards remain before the dealer reshuffles) losing streaks can last for weeks.

There's a saying: If you can't stand the flux, don't bet the bucks. Many technically proficient card counters have been run out by the flux. An elegant mathematical expression of standard deviation's power in gaming is the so-called risk of ruin, which establishes the likelihood that a particular bankroll will go to zero before it doubles.

According to calculations by the author of "knockout blackjack," olaf Vancura, a card counter playing with a 101.11 percent expected return (the expectation of one version of his card-counting system) and a bankroll that's just 25 times the minimum bet has close to a 47 percent chance of going broke before doubling his money. To drop the likelihood of going broke to, say, .5 percent requires a bankroll 1000 times larger than the games minimum wager; in a 5 to 25 dollar game, that is 5,000 dollars.

Discouraging? The name of the game is SURVIVAL. Be realistic and consider what it takes to go into any other business. Where else can you take 500 dollars in working capital and make 50 dollars a day or more on your money? (the highest rate you might get from a savings account at the bank is only 5 percent, just 25 dollars a year!!.) It takes 100,000 dollars to open the smallest business today and even then, you have a good chance of losing it all. (gambling when done right has less risk).

THE PROFIT INCREASER

Ready for some good news? A chance to make a small fortune? Yes, it does exist, so why not shoot for it? If you play long enough and survive the slumps, you will catch some breaks here and there.

LETS ASSUME YOU HAVE STUDIED HARD, PUT IN SOME HOURS WITH PAPER TRIALS AT HOME AND PRACTICCED PLAYING FOR SMALL CHIPS. YOU UNDERSTAND THE SELECTION PROCESS AND THE WGAERING PLANS THOROUGHLY; YOU ARE WELL CAPITALIZED AND YOU HAVE A DEFINITE PLAN.

The PROFIT INCREASER is used only when out of debt and back to base with a profit. Then, when you are a bit ahead, you can be more aggressive than when playing to recover losses (take a shot at them with the casino's own money!). At this point there is no danger to losing your initial bankroll.

When the game is see-sawing back and forth, you play very cautiously, of course. When winning and playing WHILE YOU ARE AHEAD, that is the time to play more aggressively.

The secret to shooting for a big gain is to play smart and not give back all of your winnings. A lot of people think the way to go is to let it ride and try for a big killing. The problem is, only one loser brings it all crashing down.

Here is one way: on even money plays it is a good idea to make the bets into parlays, meaning two winners in a row constitute a winner. This pays 3 to 1.

Suppose the first parlay wins. The 1 unit brought back 4 units, or a profit of three. The next bet is 2 units, or the halfway point of the previous parlay. If this one loses, there is still a profit of one from the first parlay and no real harm done, so back to the base you go.

But, if the second parlay wins, this will ad a profit of 6 units. The halfway point on the next parlay was 4 so the next bet is 4. Again, if the parlay loses, there is still a PROFIT.

If that wins, go up another notch.

If you work out this parlay Profit Increaser on paper, you will see that the profit gets very interesting anytime you hit a run of 10 or more winners in a row. Hardly a night goes by at dice or roulette and you do not encounter a run of 8 or 10 winners in a row. About once a week you will see runs in excess of 15 or more. About once a month it may come close to 20.

If you play the game long enough, you WILL hit a really big winning streak, so don't be standing there with your hands in your pockets when it happens. Be ready for it. Know what to DO.

Please not: You can experience a run of 10, 15, 20 or more wins the first time you ever sit down to play… it doesn't mean it will happen.

"LOCKING UP" AND "BACKING OFF"

Another way to apply the Profit Increaser approach is by "plateaus." Under this arrangement the player must be out in front and operating on "their" money. THEN the starting bet is raised to the second level (higher than what had been played). If the run continues and another 10 units is make (or around there), the bet is moved up to another level of three or four units. If you continue to win, bet steps up to higher levels (plateaus).

The trick with this approach is knowing when to back off. It MUST be handled with careful thought and definite rule, all the while remembering to "BEWARE OF GREED."

As the bet is raised to a new and higher levels during a good run, a given amount of units should be pocketed into what can be called a "lock-up." If profits fall back to this “lock-up” point the Profit Increaser action is stopped and the player goes all the way back to the base or drops out of the game. Again comes the all important question of when to quit.

ONE OF THE BIGGEST SECRETS TO SUCCESSFUL GAMBLING

We know that the game will always swing back and forth. It would be great if we could only play the upswings, but that is impossible. The only possible way to get the upswings is to survive the downswings.

You CAN avoid some of the down-swings if you play good “swinger's game.” This is one of the biggest secrets to successful gambling. With proper capitalization, patience and by following the rules, you can hand on as the game swings back and forth. Eventually, you will be “out in front” and in a good upswing.

Now, after you have made a decent profit, you are READY TO QUIT when you get the following sign. The simple rule is: QUIT on a DOWNTURN of an UPSWING. This mean NEVER stop while you are winning because it could keep going, but wait until a loser or two comes across then QUIT and walk away before a major downswing occurs.

The more disciplined you are, the better gambler you will be. It takes practice, it takes guys and it takes character to resist temptation and greed. If you can learn to quit on the downturn of an upswing, you have the makings of a true pro.

There will be times when you may be involved in a long fight but can't quite get even no matter what you do. QUIT THEN and take a break. Most casinos are open 365 days a year and you can come back anytime you want. NEVER lose your respect for a formidable opponent. Treat him like a true champion. Don't ever get cocky and don't get overconfident. Only a fool lets his guard down. Stay disciplined and stay alert.

You have now the knowledge to play a good game. The rest is up to you.

ONLINE CASINOS - A WORD OF CAUTION

Most online casinos are completely unregulated. What this means is that there is no government authority or anyone else to check for fairness of the games. All Nevada casinos, for example, are regulated by the state gaming board and there is very little reason to think you are not getting a fair game.

Most online casinos are "offshore," however, and there is no way to know if their computerized games are programmed fairly or now.

As of this writing, the only online casinos that are known to be closely regulated are those in Australia . So, if you are going to play online… you may want to consider only those that are based in Australia.

BONUS INFORMATION

SINGLE ZERO WHEELS VERSUS DOUBLE ZERO WHEELS

Whatever roulette system you play (prediction, biased, progression, etc..) you are always better off playing a single zero roulette wheel.

The double zero wheel has a bigger advantage for the casino -5.26 percent and is the reason it is not a popular game here in the country.

So stop playing in the casinos that only offer double zero wheels and start playing in the ones that offer single zero wheels (they have better odds, only -2.7 percent).

Single zero roulette wheels can be found in the US . Sometimes with even more European rules like “en prison” which brings the house edge even lower. (Try the MGM Grand in las vegas and the new Beau Rivage in Biloxi . Be sure to bring a good bankroll (the minimum bets are 25 dollars).

Single zero roulette wheels can also be found in the following places:

Any Australian casino.
In New Zealand at Sky Casino.
Throughout Europe and many casinos in the UK .

Las Vegas, Nevada: The Stratosphere, Monte Carlo, The Frontier and Tropicana, Ceasars Palace is rumored to have one, also try Binion's, the Reserve, Las Vegas Hilton, MGM Grand, and the new Bellagio.

Reno , Nevada : The Peppermill, Wendover , Nevada : Peppermill and Rainbow Casinos. Indiana : The new Ceasar's.

Mississippi : All three Grand Casino properties have at lesat one single zero wheel. These are in Biloxi , Gulfport and Tnica. The new Palace, President, and Treasure Bay are rumored to have them.

Louisiana : Grand Casino Avoyelle, Markville. Casino Rouge in Baton Rouge.

Atlantic City , New Jersey : Tropicana, Ceasar's and Trump Marina, Trump Taj Mahal (100 minimum bet)

Connecticut : Foxwoods supposedly had one.

Canada : Halifax and Sydney , nova scotia , west edmonton mall, royal diamond casino in vancouver, british columbia .

Malasia: Genting Highlands near kuala lampur has 60 tables with single zero wheels.

Bahamas : Atlantis, paradise island.

BASIC VIDO POKER STRATAGEY

Always hold: a royal flush, straight flush, four of a kind, full house, three of a kind, two pair. Break up a flush or straight flush ONLY when you have a chance for a Royal Flush.

SAVE MONEY ON EVERY TRIP

Accommodations Express (800-444-7666) is a 12 year veteran in the hotel room consolidating business specializing in gambling destinations. They also have cut rate rooms in over 1,000 hotels in 16 cities and 4 popular tourist destinations.

(averages 25-30 percent savings, can go as high as 60 percent!)

MORE BOUNUS INFORMATION

There isn't a day that goes by that a call or email comes in that goes something like "I'm on my way to Vegas! The plane leaves in an hour! What numbers should I play?!"

Playing an extremely biased roulette wheel is about the closest thing you can get to a "sure thing" in a casino. If the number 17 keeps coming up once every 30 spins (on average) instead of 37 or 38… How hard would it be to win money? All you would have to do is put 100 dollar chip down on 17 every spin. Even a child (if it were legal for him to gamble) could make a small fortune.

Actually, it usually isn't quite that simple. Millions of dollars have been made at biased wheel play, however, and despite what you may think or what you may have heard, big wins are not a thing of the past. In fact, one biased wheel team took at least 6 million dollars out of Atlantic City casinos in just one recent year.

Make no mistake, though. There is no substitute for hard work and long hours of observation if you are going to make money playing biased wheels. The most important thing about choosing a casino in which to hunt for a biased wheel is accessibility. Why? Because you are going to need a lot of data. You are going to be spending a lot of time there and you don't want to run up a huge hotel and restaurant bill while scouting for a good game. Your best choice, of course, is the casino that is closest to you.

Just because finding and exploiting a biased roulette wheel does not entail showing up at an office and punching a clock doesn't mean it wont work. Collecting the number of spins necessary to determine if there is a true bias wheel require dedication stamina and concentration. It isn't mentally taxing or anything, but it can be very tedious.

I NEED MONEY AND I WANT TO WIN BUT I DON'T HAVE THE TIME TO RECORD ENOUGH DATA.

If you were about to utter this, think first… you could ask someone to collect data for you for a flat fee or a percentage of the winning. Retirees, students, cocktail waitresses, etc.. (you have no idea how easy it would be to find a person to do this!)

Tedious as it may be to collect, ACCURATE data is essential. If you are have more than one casino in your town or if your local casino has more than one wheel - start with older wheels as they are more likely to be biased. Clocking four tables at a time is doable. Stick to two or three if the games are moving fast.

Again, use an ever sharp pencil with an eraser. Do not use pen.

If the casino provides roulette score cards, use them. Some trackers have their own notepads and charts, writing on the casino provided cards looks more natural and you won't look quite as prepared or stick out like someone with his own.

If the casino doesn't provide cards, just go to a near by baccarat table and use one of their cards. You don't have to hide the fact you are gathering data. Casinos provide roulette wheels because they EXPECT gamblers to record numbers. Attempting to hide what you are doing will look much worse - even suspicious - than simply standing there writing down the numbers.

You should always ID the tables you keep track of. The best way is to use the numbers the casino itself uses to number them. You might find this number at the top of the electronic scoreboards. It may appear something like MC 101. (monte carlo 101). Or, you can usually find it on the limit sign or on a small plaque next to the drop box (where they stash the cash).

If there are no table numbers, then create it yourself. You could even draw a small sketch of the floor plan to label the table. DO NOT rely on your memory.

Look carefully at all of the wheels you are tracking and make detailed notes. Some casinos occasionally move their wheels from table to table and want you to be sure you are collecting data from the same wheel. Note any defects on the wheel, cigarette marks, scratches, cracks, etc.

If there are marks on the rotor, it is even better. The overwhelming majority of biases are caused by wear and/or defects on the rotor. It is possible, especially in European casinos, that casino employees might move rotors from one table to another without moving the wheel.

KNOW THE WHEEL AS IF IT WAS YOUR VERY OWN CAR OR SOMETHING YOU TREASURE DEEPLY.

Your notes containing distinguishing marks should be kept in your pocket and out of sight of prying eyes. If another player asks to see your card (which will happen at least once a day) he should see numbers only. You do NOT want him to see WHEEL 1: LOOSE FRET BETWEEN 3 AND 15, SCRATCH ABOVE NUMBER 20, ETC.

Today many casinos have electronic scoreboards that display the recent 15-20 numbers. It is possible for one person to keep track of 10 or 20 wheels at once (that is the purpose).

DON'T DO IT! Electronic devices aren't always right and the ball may bounce in one slot so the board reads 12, but it lands in another. You don't need this inaccurate result and it could affect your record keeping.

It is possible (but not very likely) that you will find a wheel with an extreme bias. Of course, any bias that becomes obvious to you after 1000 spins may be just as obvious to other players.

Keep in mind, however, machines wear out unevenly. Even as you are taking data from a wheel, that wheel continues to wear. This means that any original bias may strengthen or weaken or disappear. It is the very physical law that provides exploitable biases in roulette wheels that can cause them to go away. Fortunately, whatever forces are at work that cause roulette wheel biases tend to continue in the same direction (most get stronger over time.)

You may want to start in older casinos preferably with single zero wheels as these may be more likely to be beatable. Double zero wheel can be bias too so don't rule them out. Most of the newer casinos probably have wheels that are in good shape. Sometimes though they put in an old wheel, so watch out for those too.

WHEEL CHARING INSTRUCTIONS

1. ACCURACY: The information you will gather is only of use if it is ACCURATE. Begin by tracking one wheel at a time. Do not go to the casino to chart if you are tired. Do not drink the night before or while you are there. GET THAT ACCURATE DATA!

2. DATA CARDS: You can usually find blank scorecards somewhere in the casinos. If they don't have any at roulette table, go to the baccarat table.

3. CASINO HOURs: Not all are open 24 hours, you should indicate the operation hours on the card.

4. ELECTRONIC SCOREBOARD: They aren't always accurate so be careful. Also a dealer may call out a number that is different than the board so watch out.

5. MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM BETS: Always indicate the minimum bets and maximum bets on the scorecard. These can change day to day. During the week they make lower it on non-busy days, then raise them on busy holidays or weekends.

6. TIME OF DAY: Log the time period and the day and date on each card.

7. CURRENCY: Indicate weather the table is playing foreign money or US dollars.

8. YOU ARE "ADOPTING" EACH WHEEL: You must become familiar with its wood grain and imperfections.

9. ID NUMBER: You will almost always find an id number on the wheel, write it down, if there is non, give it a number that you will remember for it.

10. DEARLER CHANGE: Indicate dealer change by putting a small line after the last number thrown by the previous dealer, and put their first name near the line.

BONUS OFFERS

Because of the travel expenses involved we can only play wheels that are seriously biased. We will take all the risk and play for you and give you 10 percent of the net winnings in cash on the spot.

If you find a wheel with a good player advantage and we are unable to play it for any reason, we can send you the numbers for you to play ( you use your own money though).

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT BIASE WHEEL PLAY

Does biased wheel play work with 00 wheel?

Yes. If the wheel shows a bias, works for single zero too.

How many spins do I need to record before I know it is biased?

At least 1000 spins. If there is no promise after 1000 spins, we would wave you off of that wheel and say go find another.

How many spins a day will I be able to record?

You should be able to get about 200 spins per day (per wheel).

Do I need to be actually sitting at the table or just near by?

Do NOT sit at the table, this may put some casino's on alert, but just be far enough where you can see where the ball lands so you an take accurate data, do not have anything blocking the way and attract as little attention as possible.

Do I need to record spins in a row?

NO. As long as you make note of the wheel number and time of day you should be fine.

What if someone asks what I am doing?

Just say this:
1. I am working on a system
2. I am looking for "hot numbers"
3. I am waiting for my favorite numbers to come up before I start playing.

These usually get a laugh out of that person and they walk off saying GOOD LUCK!

HOW DO I KNOW IF A WHEEL IS TRULY BIASED AND WHICH NUMBERS TO BET ON?

Any time you find a wheel where one or more numbers is coming up substantially more than once every 37 spins on a single zero wheel or more than once in 38 on a double zero wheel, on average, over several thousand spins - you are probably looking at a biased wheel.

Simply list the numbers down on a sheet of paper and put a "/" when the number comes up to see a chart of what numbers came up most like this.

0//////////////////////////////
1//////////////////////////////
2//////////////////////////////
3//////////////////////////////
4//////////////////////////////
5//////////////////////////////
6//////////////////////////////
7//////////////////////////////
8//////////////////////////////
9//////////////////////////////
10//////////////////////////////
11//////////////////////////////
12///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
13//////////////////////////////
14////////////////////////
15//////////////////////////////
16//////////////////////////////
17//////////////////////////
18//////////////////////////////
19///////////////////////////////
20//////////////////////////////
21////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
22//////////////////////////////
23////////////////////////////////
24//////////////////////////////
25//////////////////////////////
26///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
27/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
28////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
29//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
30//////////////////////////////
31///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
32//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
33///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
34////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
35/////////////////////////////////////////////
36/////////////////////////////////////////////////

[chart is not exactly like real spins, but shows how some numbers would show more than others and how you would be able to tell this would be a bias wheel]

Which numbers would you bet on? Obviously 12 and 21 as they are showing a distinct bias. 26 and 32 seem to be hitting more often then they normally should. The numbers 12 and 21 are hitting about twice as often as 32 and 26, however, so start by betting 2 units on each 12 and 21 and 1 unit each on 26 and 32. (keep charting and recording numbers and results as you go along. Look for any pattern changes at the end of each session, adjust your bets accordingly.)

Always make flat bets when playing a biased wheel. Start out with the table minimum and stay there until you are substantially ahead. Only then should you increase the betting unit amount, always keeping in mind the 500 to 1 ratio of bankroll to betting.

A FEW MORE WORDS OF CAUTION: sometimes your chart will start to look like the one above early on, maybe after a few hundred spins. You will need at least 2000 spins to determine if a wheel may be bias.

Do not delude yourself into thinking that you have found a bias wheel only after sampling less than 2 - 3 thousand spins. Anything less is not enough data.

It is entirely possible to have a “few runaway numbers” in a small sampling. What you are witnessing when this happens could be normal deviation (short term trend) and not a bias wheel. You might be looking a truly bias wheel but you will need more data to know for sure.

Very conservative and very knowlegeable biased wheel players will consider nothing less than 5000 spins to determine if a wheel is TRULY biased.

Please note: even if a wheel is bias, you could lose a small bankroll during slumps.

If you find a good wheel and we play it for you , usually with 100 dollar bets, you will be playing roulette with 10 dollars of someone else's money (you get 10 percent).

ADDITIONAL BONUS MATERIALS

GRIND SYSTEM FOR EVEN MONEY BETS ON BACCARAT, ROULETTE, AND CRAPS

This method can be simply and easily explained. At all times, you seek to win just one unit per betting cycle. If a losing streak is encountered you then modestly progress the bet size of your bets. (searching for a one win at a time goal).

The progression never advances past the stage where your next wager would exceed an amount necessary to regain past losses, plus the one unit win.

Since you increase your wager by a unit following each win, your next bet would be two units. If you win, your bet size stands at 2 units.

Don't do it. According to the plan, you are only trying to win of amounts of one unit at a time. So ignore the two unit sizing of your bet and drop back to one unit bet. If that bet wins, you are ahead by one.

To review: In each sequence of plays the player's goal is to gain a net profit of one unit then start over. First bet is one, if lost the next bet is the same. Whenever a bet is won, the next bet is one unit larger (unless winnings will produce larger than one unit win).

Here is a chart to help you see…

outcome	L	W	L	W	W	L	L	L	L	L	W	W	W	W
bet size	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	2	2	1
net gain	-1	0	-1	0	1	-1	-2	-3	-4	-5	-4	-2	0	+1

Although it may appear almost foolproof, computer analysis reveals that this system can ruin you as the potential exists for a massive loss in approximately one out of every 5000 sessions.

Now, before you take comfort in those numbers, remember that this is cataclysmic event could occur the very first time so BEWARE!

A player could stop anytime he pleases and not go all the way through with a downtrend if one appears.

It would be recommended that you walk away with 50 percent winnings (of bankroll).

Thus the system is refined into a more sensible betting procedure. Armed with this information, it isn't difficult to come out ahead.

Modifications? Well if you want to follow the trend, in roulette if the spin is red, go red next, if black go black, in craps, if not pass, bet no pass line etc.

Try it on paper first and you will see. (most other systems bite the dust when a choppy table appears).

In many instances you will find a baccarat game where the decisions have been running either in favor of the Player or in favor of the Bank for hours, days or weeks. Of course, if you find such a game, bet with the trend.

Another way to bet with this method is to find a casino that only takes a 4 percent commission on all bank bets (instead of the usual 5). Make all your bets on the Bank and hope that the natural occurrence of more Bank wins increases your win to loss ratio. Try to quit a winner.

THE METHOD

1. Each betting decision is based on the previous decision. If dice have passed, you go for the pass, if not go for the don't pass…

2. Use the progressive betting plan above. Stick with the one unit wagers. Increase following the wins. Never bet more than is necessary to recover pass losses suffered during a series plus a one unit profit. When point has been reached, begin all over again with a one-unit bet. Remember, the size of your bet remains the same following each loss during a betting cycle (only increase on the wins!)

3. There are two logical times to walk away. When you either have about 50 percent of your bankrol, or if you are down by 10 units or more.

Various sections of the wheel itself can "heat up" too. It may be due to "dealer signature," it may be that the wheel is a bit biased or it may be a normal run. Whatever is causing it; whether it be one of the above reasons or another, it happens a lot.

Some experts say "dealer signature" doesn't exist, others disagree. Whether it does or doesn't doesn't matter. Just if certain sections of a wheel hit more than others, then take advantage of it. Don't debate why it is happening.

Below is a list of numbers and you can see if you look at a number and go two to the left and right what their neighboring numbers are… for example 00, it has 27, 10 to the right and 1, 13 to the left so it looks like 13,1,00,27,10 for its neighboring numbers…

Have you decided yet what type of action and what odds you are most interested in? Lets say that even money bets are most appealing to you… how can you track the decisions?

If you settle on a good plan and play often you may be able to do it all in your head for a while, but you will want to keep a scorecard.

The illistration underneath shows what a card might look like and how you would be able to see trends within the even money chance.

R	B	O	E	L	H
36			X		X
	17	X		X
34
30			X		X
	22		X		X
	22		X		X
19		X			X
	29	X			X
	35	X			X
30			X		X
25		X			X
3		X		X
	22		X		X
	28		X		X
	4		X	X
18			X	X
	28		X		X
	28		X		X
1		X		X

As you can see there are runs of certain areas designated by X's. R is red, B is Black, O is odd, E is even, L is low, and H is high.

You can create your own special designs on 3X5 cards for tracking triples, six blocks, streets, and the other types of bets (as previously mentioned, always use a MECANICAL PENCIL with a built in eraser).